Italy 2002 Trip Report

May 12, 2002

Arrive Rome FCO around 8:00am, direct flight from Chicago. Caught train to the Rome Termini station, and got a train from Rome to Naples. We were able to buy the tickets for the Naples train at the airport station. Saved time. We transferred to the Circumvesuviana Train to Sorrento via the walkway. We got a taxi to our hotel, since it is just outside of town, the Hotel Minerva. Ate lunch at La Minervetta across from the Minera. Food was good. Walked to Sorrento, good 15 minute walk to center of town. Looked around town and found some yummy gelati. For supper, we went to La Tonarella near our hotel. It was very good, 65e. ($0.90USD = 1 euro-e)

May 13, 2002

We took the train to Pompeii this morning, the station at Pompeii is really close to the entrance. 10e admission. the site is very large, saw many building, streets, a brothel in which Neil got pushed by a pissy Italian tour guide. Then we took the train back into Naples. We bought our Eurostar tickets for Thursday to Rome. 48e for both. Then walked around Naples, busy busy town. We found the L' Antica Pizzeria Michele, listed in Rick's. We waited outside for 20 minutes, not really sure if we would know when we would be called. Excellent authentic Napoli pizza for 3.10e. The old guys had lab coats on. Best pizza we've ever had. Looked around some more and walked to the port(a long walk) to get a hydrophoil boat back to Sorrento. Much quicker than the Circumvesuviana, 20 minutes vs 70 minutes on the train. Plus the train is notorious for pickpockets and theft. Boat cost 7e each. For supper, we went to Lanterna. It was good, tourist crowd though.

May 14, 2002

We caught the SITA bus at the train station in Sorrento. Took us to Positano for 1.19e. Sit on the right side to Positano and the left side back. Walked from the first stop at Positano the long walk down into town, very pretty and relaxing.  Walked all the way down to the beach, we saw the sisters we met on the flight over, Karen & Elaine from Chicago. They are on an Insight tour. We walked back up the other way out of town and caught the bus back to Sorrento at the other stop. We ate lunch at Il Buco, it was great. We got complimentary chamapagne and stuffed zucchini. Neil had prawn and broccoli stuffed ravioli. I had gnocchi. We ate there for dinner too. I had the fish menu for 42e and Neil the meat menu for 38e. Mine came with a souffle(chocolate with lemon sauce), the fish entree was great and so was the prawn deep fried with mozzarella. Neil's came with an nion/pecorina pasta that was yummy and veal medallions. We laid out and relaxed by the our hotel's pool for a while in the afternoon. www.ilbucoristorante.it

May 15, 2002

We took the Jet ferry to Capri this morning, 8.50e each. TOok the funicular to Capri town and then the bus to Anacapri. Walked and found the chair lift to the top(5.5e round trip), and had some amazing views of the island and the cliffs. Had to wait for some of the clouds to clear for pictures. For lunch we ate in Anacapri at Monerita, had great pizza! It was about a 5 minute walk from the bus stop in Anacapri. We bused it back to Capri town, very touristy. Neil & I took the paved footpath from Capri, it had incredible views and lots of stairs at the end, to my chagrin. It is called via Pizzalungo and goes aroudn the cape. We also had gelati at a shop off of the town square downhill from the funiculare. It was on the left hand side and was made right there-delicious. We took the 5:20 ferry back to Sorrento. Bused it back to the hotel. Dinner tonight was at L' Antica Trattoria. We both had the meat menu for 55e. It came with a great desert. It was a cone type thing filled with custard and garnished with lemon sauce. The lemoncello liquor that they make here also was included at the end, it is quite strong and relaxes you real quick.

May 16, 2002

We caught a taxi to the train station this morning, didn't want to deal with the bus if it was not on time. We caught the Eurostar train to Rome in Naples at 9:30, got us into Rome by 11:15. Our hotel is the Albergo del Sonato, right on the square of the Pantheon. Unfortunately our room has no view. Neil talked to the guy at the desk and he said we could switch rooms tomorrow. We walked through the Forum on our way to the Colosseum, nobody charged us to get in this time. Must be free now, but the Colessum charges 10e each. We found an awesome spot for gelati near the Pantheon. It is called dell Palma and is about 2 blocks straight away as you stand with your back to the Pantheon entrance. For supper we ate near the Campo di Fiori at Grotto dei Pompeo. I had good pasta with gorgonzola and eggplant parmesean. Neil had fried veggies and pesto with pasta. We went up on the hotel's terrace on the 7th floor, what a view. Fun to look at all the people in the square below. Pantheon square is very busy at night!

May 17, 2002

Neil got up before it was light out to walk around and take pictures. He walked over to the Piazza Navona(5 minutes) and took lots of pictures. He said it was him, a few bums, and the street sweeper. Very peaceful. He also took pictures at the Pantheon and was just him and the cops sitting in their Polizia car. We went to breakfast around 7:00am and then headed to St Peter's. The guy at the front desk wasn't the nicest, but we did manage to get a room with a view out of him. We took the street tram and made it to St Peters before 8:00am. No crowds. Neil took lots of pictures and it was incredible again to see with relatively few people. Nuns and priests striding throught going about their business. We took the elevator to the second level, below the dome and looked around. Hit the gift shop for some postcards. Walked around in the area near St Peters, it got hot real quick today. Took the bus back to near our hotel, changed rooms when we got back, and relaxed looking at our wonderful view of the Pantheon. We took a taxi to the Borghese Gallery for our 5:00 reservation. The gallery is beautiful in an old palace. Got so see beautiful sculptures by Bernini. We then walked to the Spanish Steps, Trevi fountain, and back to our hotel. We were tired after that long hot walk. Relaxed for a while again, this time going to the rooptop terrace for a drink. We took a taxi to Trastevere for dinner, ate at a place Rick Steve's recommended, Trattoria Tony. I had seafood risotto and excellent sea bass. Neil had pesto and Roman chicken. we also had bruschetta, water, and good house wine. We walked around Trastevere a little before taking the tram back to Piazza Argentina. There we came across the cat sanctuary admist some old Roman ruins.

May 18, 2002

I got up early with Neil at 5:00am this morning. We walked over to Piazza Navona so he could take pictures again. It was neat to walk in the deserted piazzas and streets, usually so busy in Rome. At 8:30 we visited the Pantheon again, it just opened and we were the only tourist in it for a few minutes! We caught bus 43 to the termini station and picked up our car from AutoEurope, a Peugot 206(stickshift). After a few wrong turns that still got us out of town, just a few minutes out of the way, we got to Orvieto after 1&1/2 hours. We got a room at the Hotel Duomo for 93e. We actually stayed here 5 years ago, but they've renovated the place almost completely since then. We ate lunch at La Palomba, I had buffalo mozzarella and tomatoes and chicken cacciatore. Neil had brushcetta and ravioli. We drove to Civita today, since we are unsure of the weather for tomorrow. It's supposed to rain. Hiked to the village and looked around. Saw the old olive press and had bruschetta with tomatoes and olive oil cooked over a fire. Spectacular sitting in the old "cave". Much easier visiting Civita this time, last time we had brought our backpacks along. We checked out the Duomo in Orvieto, and looked around at the shops for a while. For dinner, we went to a great restaurant up the lane that runs that runs into the Duomo. Tipica Trattoria Estruca, at Via Lorenzo Maitani 10. Neil & I had umbrichelli, the regional homemade pasta. For the main course Neil had delicious Pigeon, seems weird but is a delicacy, and I had rabbit al 'Estrusca. Our waiter was really nice too. Had gelati at the place near the Duomo, yummy. We wandered the streets and found the Palio, a horse race in one of the old piazzas. It is similar to the one in Siena, except on a smaller scale. It was neat to see the local festivities and to see the horses race.

May 19, 2002

Had our breakfast at the hotel, and headed out of Orvieto and drove to Pitigliano. We wandered for about 1/2 thru the town and grabbed a piece of pizza before heading north on the Route de Toscana to Pienza. The views on the road as you come towards Pienza are the typical pictures of Tuscany that you see, beautiful. It was overcast with sun lightening up the sky sporadically. Pienza was an idyllic Tuscany hilltown. We then drove the gravel road to Montichiello, Neil took lots of pictures. It was a beautiful drive. We drove on to Montepulciano. We got a room at Il Marzocco for 88e. The room was plain, nothing fancy, but the location just inside the city gate makes for an easier walk to and from the car. We wandered the town a bit and walked the steep climb up the main street to the "top" of town. Stopped at Snoopy Gelateria and had great gelati. For dinner, we went to Osteria Borgo Buio. It is in a 14th Century wine cellar off of the main street. We had pici pasta to start, Neil had grilled veal steak for his entree and I had a veal stew in a wine sauce. We really enjoyed the entire meal, great house wines, and the atmosphere. They had a lot of regional historic items on the menu. The waiter translated it into English very nicely, since the they didn't have menus in English.

May 20, 2002

We drove back towards Pienza via the main road this morning and took the gravel road again to Monticchiello. We walked around for 1/2 hour and took in the cute quite town. It had a post office, clothing store, grocery, and a few cafes. We took a different way back to the main highway and drove to Montalcino. We wandered it old lanes for about a 1/2 hour and found a grocery store to buy a few items. Left around noon to head to Siena. We hit a road block for the Tour d'Italia bike race, and were probably about 2 minutes too late to make it thru before they closed the road. We were the second car in line. We waited for 2 hours before the bikes came thru, it was kind of neat to see the race though. Once we got to Siena, we parked in the Soccer Stadium parking lot. We walked to a few places to see if they had rooms, nobody did so we walked back to the room booking service near the stadium. They found us a room for tonight at the Hotel Duomo. It's 130e. We had to pay a 2e booking fee and 10% to the service. The balance to the hotel is 117e. We drove around to the other side of the city to get to our hotel, Neil drove inside the city walls and thought we were going down the right street. There was construction and it ended up being blocked, Neil had to back up about 100m thru pedestrian traffic. Driving into the hotel wasn't fun for him. We went to a laundromat just off of Il Campo. While the clothes were washing/drying, Neil waited while I went to a few places to inquire about a room for tomorrow night. All were fuul, but a few said to check back at 9 or 10 tomorrow morning. Hopefully, something will work out. For supper, we went to Albergo Garibaldi, one of Ric's recommendations. We had a 15e menu which included water and wine. Nothing fancy, but good enough food. We talked to the 2 American girls next to us. Our entire dinner was 30e, the cheapest yet.

May 21, 2002

Our hotel had another room for us today. This one was in the annex, a lot nicer, modern with bath, etc. Same price. Ok breakfast included. We went to Il Campo and climbed the tower(5e each). Opened at 10am. We walked around a bit through town. Went to the Duomo, some some Bernini Statues along with a Donatello and two Michelangelo’s. Had some wine and cheese on the Campo at one of the cafes. Very relaxing. For dinner we went to the restaurant next to the Hotel Piccolo Etruria. Neil had a steak(rare) with a balsamic vinegar reduction for the sauce. Everything was really good, it was down in an old wine cellar.

May 22, 2002

We walked back to the parking garage where our car was, Neil didn’t feel like driving through the pedestrian area again. Took the long way out of Siena it seemed. Drove to Monterigianni, a small walled city about 12km from Siena. Very pretty, surrounded by groves of olive trees. Neil took many pictures, and we walked around in the small relaxed town. Drove on to Colle di Val D’Elsa about 10km farther away. Another quaint hill town, we walked from one end to the other, had lunch at a nice restaurant, not too expensive for once. Had great gelati on the main square. We then drove on to San Gimignano. We are staying at the La Cisterna Hotel. Great location and nice room. Walked around and called Florence to make a reservation for the next night. Climbed the Torre Grossa”grand tower” of town for spectacular views of the town and surrounding area. We went to the La Terrezze restaurant at our hotel. Excellent. I had wild boar with a wine sauce, Neil had beef with a Chianti sauce, and rosemary potatoes. Walked through the quiet town, not many tourists stay the night. Gelati at Gelatoriadi Piazza, “the best in Tuscany” was really good.

May 23, 2002

Had a good breakfast at La Cisterna this morning, the drive to Florence itself was quick, but the drive thru town to the Fortezza parking lot was REALLY slow. Walked to our hotel, the Bellettini, which is close to the Medici Chapel. Our room was ready when we arrived(10am). The hotel is very pleasant and received a warm welcome when we arrived, plus free internet. We walked to the Bargello Museum to view the sculptures there. We headed to St. Croce to look at the Leather School, which is located thru the back of the Church. I tried on a really nice black jacket and then looked at all the tombs, we had been here in 1997. We went to lunch at Baldovino right off of the St. Croce square, while I pondered the jacket. Neil had the most amazing gnocchi with pesto that we have every seen. I tried some more jackets on at some of the shops along the square, not seeing any I liked better. Went back and bought the jacket and they put my initials on the inside of the jacket. Bought some wallets for the dads and had them engraved too. Toured the Medici Chapel, saw the tombs and those designed by Michelangelo. Checked out the Duomo and saw the beautiful restored ceiling of the Dome. It was being renovated when we were last here. Bought a purse from one of the leather vendors. For diner, we took a taxi to Beccofino, owned by the same man as Baldovino(lunch stop). It was more of a designer place with "modern" Italian food. I had gnocchi with asparagus, pecorino, and thyme. Neil had Taglielli stuffed with beef topped with pecorino. Entress were rabbit and pigeon. Stopped for gelati just off the Ponte Vecchio at "festival of gelati". www.firenze.net/hotelbellettini

May 24, 2002

Fairly easy drive to Venice, out of Florence the autostrada was curvy with a lot of tunnels and mountains. Dropped of the car at the Venice airport. It was easy, small airport. We caught the Alilaguna boat to Zattere stop. Took about an hour or so and cost 9e. Easily found Hotel Galleria at the base of the Academia Bridge. Our room is long and narrow, less than six feet wide! We have a window that opens on the Grand Canal and a private bath for 104e. Had good pizza next to the otel at Pizzeria Academia Foscarini. Pizza Marghareta for only 5e. Walked towards San Marco Square and looked at the shops. Bought some Murano watches. Went to San Marco and looked at the mosaic floors, gold & jeweled alterpieces. Saw the 4 bronze horses and went to the terrace for the view of Piazza San Marco. We took the “waterbus” back to the Academia Museum, loaded with Venetian art. It was ok, we’ve seen lots of museums on this trip. Ate dinner at Tratoira Al Cugnai near our hotel. I had great Cutlet Milanese. We shared tiramisu. Both had pasta, wine, and an entrée. Bil was about 50e. Good basic food, nothing fancy. We had gelatiat Gelateria Nico near the Zattere boat stop. Great pesca getati(peach).

May 25, 2002

Caught the boat to Burano Island, looked around quickly and decided to go to Murano island to shop for glass. We bought some Christmas trees and a glass lamp shade. Got a picnic lunch at the Coop grocery store. Headed back to Piazza San Marco via boat. Went to Café Florian for a champagne and strawberry cocktail on the square. The atmosphere was somewhat ruined by the screeching baby the couple outside decided to let cry without comforting it. I felt like I was at McDonald’s instead of an expensive café in Venice. We bought some square faced Venetian glass watches I had seen earlier. We walked around the streets behind our hotel, very quiet, and saw where they repirt the gondolas. Wen to the big internet café again on Campo San Stefano, 3e for 20 minutes, lots of computer and fast connections. Went back to the pizzeria by our hotel for supper. Then wandered to San Marco where water was bubbling up through the wers at a fast rate. Lots of areas of the square had several inches of water by the time we left. Took the crowded number #1 boat to the next stop, then wandered back to our hotel.

May 26, 2002

Took the train to Milan, about 3 hours. Metro to Cardusio near our hotel, Hotel Antica Locanda Mercant. Great location about 5 minutes from the Duomo just off of Via Dante. We looked around the Duomo Piaazza and the Galleria. Had lunch at the Autogrill Buffet on the second level of Galleria facing Duomo. We had a reservation to see da Vinci’s last supper at 4pm, took Tram 24 from Cardusio, allowed 15 minutes in group of 25 people to see the last supper. We went to Trattoria Milanes for dinner, good Risotto and good atmosphere. Got caught in a downpour on the way back, didn’t make for good walking back.

May 27, 2002

Looked at shops on via Dante. Bought glasses frames to have lenses put in at home. S&V, 64e. We walked down fancy shopping street of Milan, most stores were closed. Had lunch at Brek Cafeteria. Step up from the Autogrill, most of the people were professionals. Looked for Mephisto shop for Neil, couldn’t find it. We think they went out of business and never took the sign down. Went into the Duomo, built over 500 years of pink marble. Took the elevator to the roof, and walked all around. Really neat. Combo ticket, elevator to top and Duomo museum for 7e. Dinner at Pizzeria Calafuria Unione, not far from Duomo, good food and pizza. Neil had great pasta with just romano cheese, garlic, and olive oil.

May 28, 2002

Taxi to airport, British Air to London, London to Chicago on American. Neil met what we think maybe a long lost relative at the British Air counter in Milan. Her last name was Kersten and she said her grandmother came from a small village in northern Germany on the Baltic Sea coast. That’s where Neil’s dad has said his grandfather came from originally. Small world….